Previously discussed here ==> https://www.slimjet.com/en/forum/viewto ... 490#p11490
After upgrading to 32 after skipping a few versions and fiddling with the flags (I had disabled it), I have it back.
I assume it's a "Chrome" thing because Brave also has it (though disabled by default).
Previous discussion because I did not know what it was and it only works on sites that support it.
At least now a lot of big news sites are supporting it.
Read the link for a description of what it's supposed to do.
Here is the answer to my unanswered question about how to invoke it:
The red circle is added to show you what to click.
Click it again to toggle.
Clicking the A lets you customize the font including the size.